Spirit and Spine
‘Kitohone’ (Kikotsu)

Scores of sake bottles and sake tasting cups are lined up in an orderly way on a long table in the large tatami room. This is “nomikiri” – a process in which the entire staff of the brewery, along with invited specialists, carefully evaluate sake from each tank brewed last winter. They engage in serious discussion at this critique and strengthen their unity for the next brewing season. Toji’s responsibilities include employing workers to cover each phase of the brewing process. During the first six months of the procedure, tension builds under circumstances which do not allow weekends off. Under such conditions, he can almost be seen as devil-like. He prioritizes tasks in seconds and engages in detailed recordkeeping. Producing koji (malted rice) is a critical process which demands full concentration over two days and nights. Temperature and humidity must be strictly controlled, with monitoring by the five senses and adjustments made by hand.
Insatiably studying brewing chemistry, evolving technology, and senior masters’ techniques since his youth, he made himself a master of the yamahai (a natural brewing technique), which had been on the brink of becoming a lost art. He feels a deep appreciation for the mentoring he received from the late chairman of the company for which he worked for many years as the toji. Noguchi says he also learned many important things from him aside from sake. A rich harvest from the rice field spread out behind the brewery pleased him this year. Sake brewing season is just starting. To respond to the expectations of his fans, including some of thirty years standing, he puts all his heart and soul into his work.